Part I: How Lifestance Shaped The Streets of Hong Kong

2025 Buddha’s Birthday Carnival at Victoria Park (source: Tourism Board)

Buddha's Birthday is a day of enlightenment, public holiday celebration, and, let's be honest, an excuse to skip work. Typically observed in May, it has been Hong Kong's only officially recognised Chinese traditional religious holiday since 1999. Following the handover, it replaced Queen’s Birthday on the public holiday calendar—an emblematic shift. Despite having the most public holidays in East Asia spanning multiple faiths, only 24% of Hongkongers consider religion central to daily life. Ever pragmatic, many approach these holidays as opportunities for strategic scheduling rather than spiritual observance.

The city's lifestance leans toward secularism, but the fingerprints of spiritual traditions remain deeply embedded in its history and culture. From Taoist temples to colonial-era churches, religious and esoteric influences continue to shape Hong Kong’s development, even if belief itself plays a subdued role in everyday life.

This series explores the interplay between faith, philosophy, and public life in Hong Kong—examining how traditions persist in a society where personal spirituality often takes a backseat to pragmatism. In this first installment, we unravel the forces that have contributed to the city's unique lifestance, from ancient Chinese beliefs to global religious currents and the enigmatic presence of Freemasonry.

Chinese Worship

Hong Kong’s religious landscape has long been shaped by the syncretic nature of Chinese beliefs, blending Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, and folk traditions.

Sacred Peaks

Buddhism’s presence in Hong Kong is etched into both its sacred landscapes and urban heritage. During the late Qing Dynasty, monks fleeing political unrest sought refuge in Lantau’s misty peaks, naming them after Buddhist figures and establishing Po Lin Monastery (寶蓮禪寺) in 1906 as a sanctuary for meditation and enlightenment. Today, the monastery stands as a gateway to spiritual reflection, watched over by the towering Tian Tan Buddha.

Buddhism’s influence extended beyond Lantau, shaping early settlements across Hong Kong. Pui To Shan (杯渡山), now Castle Peak in Tuen Mun, derives its name from a wandering monk who spread Buddhist teachings during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Though Tuen Mun has grown into a thriving town, traces of its Buddhist past remain in place names that preserve his legacy.

Planned in 1969, built by 1990, and unveiled in 1993, Lantau’s Big Buddha took its time reaching enlightenment. (source: Tourism Board)

Divine Protectors

A glimpse of 1870 Hong Kong, where Man Mo Temple stood beside Sei Wan Yu Lan Kung So 四環盂蘭公所 (community hall), in a city where early British rule overlooked Chinese welfare. (source: HK Memory)

Folk deity worship in Hong Kong is deeply tied to trade-based traditions, shaping both spiritual life and the city’s geography. Temples honoring protective deities provided guidance and influence over livelihoods, reinforcing the cultural fabric of local communities.

Man Mo Temple (文武廟) in Sheung Wan, one of Hong Kong’s earliest religious landmarks, exemplifies this dynamic. Dedicated to Man Cheong (文昌), god of literature, and Mo Tai (武帝), god of war, the temple symbolised scholarship and martial prowess. But its role extended beyond worship—it became an unofficial courthouse for the local Chinese community, where disputes were settled through oath-taking rituals invoking divine witnesses, such as "chopping a chicken’s head" and "burning yellow paper" (斬雞頭、燒黃紙). As Hong Kong’s legal system formalised, these practices faded, yet the temple remained a cornerstone of the city’s cultural heritage.

Temples honoring protective deities became woven into Hong Kong’s geography, with some lending their names to MTR stations. Tin Hau (天后), goddess of the sea, safeguarded coastal communities, while Wong Tai Sin (黃大仙), a revered healer, continues to draw worshippers seeking blessings for health and fortune.

Feng Shui and Auspicious Naming

Beyond temples, Chinese traditions have had a subtle influence on Hong Kong's urban planning, particularly through feng shui, the ancient practice of aligning spaces with natural forces. This can be seen in the way streets and neighbourhoods are named to attract prosperity and ward off misfortune. For example, High Street (高街) in Sai Ying Pun was intentionally named to avoid the number four (四, jyutping: sei3), which sounds like "death" (死, jyutping: sei2) in Cantonese. Such considerations highlight the long-standing superstitions and spiritual beliefs that continue to influence Hong Kong's built environment.

Christianity’s Mark

Just as traditional Chinese beliefs and superstitions have shaped Hong Kong’s streets, Christianity has also left a profound imprint on the city’s landscape. From schools and hospitals to charitable organisations, Christian names serve as a testament to the faith’s influence on Hong Kong’s development.

Missionaries and Their Enduring Influence

The Chinese Bible, Morrison Bible, translated by Rev Robert Morrison and Rev William Milne, was published in 1823‎. (source: Ying Wa College)

The contributions of Christian missionaries are embeded in Hong Kong’s geography. Robert Morrison, commemorated in Morrison Hill (摩理臣山), dedicated his life to translating the Bible into Chinese, overcoming immense linguistic and cultural obstacles. Meanwhile, Karl Gützlaff, honoured in Gutzlaff Street (吉士笠街) took a different approach, immersing himself in local communities and integrating faith into everyday life.

Early Catholic and Protestant missionaries did more than spread their beliefs—they laid the foundations for many of Hong Kong’s educational institutions. Their legacy remains visible in place names such as Ying Wa Street (英華街), La Salle Road (喇沙利道), and True Light Lane (真光里), reflecting their lasting historical and cultural significance.

Faith in Public Housing

Christianity’s influence extends beyond street names, it played a pivotal role in shaping Hong Kong’s public housing system. After the Second World War, the city faced a humanitarian crisis, with thousands of refugees living in makeshift wooden shacks vulnerable to fires, landslides, and disease. In response, the Hong Kong Housing Society was founded in 1947, initially guided by church leadership before evolving into a self-sufficient organisation.

As official relief efforts struggled to meet growing demand, faith-based groups stepped in, providing Hong Kong’s first organised housing solutions and laying the foundations for one of the world’s most ambitious public housing programmes. These settlements offered more than just shelter, they fostered education, strengthened communities, and restored dignity, demonstrating that humanitarian missions extended far beyond physical infrastructure.

Born from crisis and built on faith, refugees found hope in a hillside sanatorium, later growing into Haven of Hope Hospital. (source: Hospital Authority)

The Christian MTR Station

Christianity has also left its mark on Hong Kong’s MTR stations, including Po Lam, joining Tin Hau and Wong Tai Sin in reflecting religious influence. In the 1950s, as Hong Kong became a refuge for thousands displaced by war and hardship, missionaries Rev. Sterling Whitener and Pastor Barbara Brown Whitener established the Haven of Hope Tuberculosis Sanatorium (now Haven of Hope Hospital) to provide critical medical care. Their efforts also resulted in the construction of a key road connecting Tseung Kwan O Chau to Anderson Road in Sai Kung, thereby improving access to critical services. Barbara's Chinese name, 惠寶琳 (jyutping: wai6 bou2 lam4), remains on Po Lam Road (寶琳道), while Haven of Hope Road (靈實路) reflects the hospital's ongoing humanitarian mission.

Islam’s Subtle but Significant Presence

Though relatively small in numbers, Hong Kong’s Muslim community has shaped the city in ways often overlooked. Through trade, migration, education, and cultural heritage, Islam has quietly woven itself into Hong Kong’s evolving identity, leaving its mark on streets, institutions, and daily life.

The Arrival of Islam in Hong Kong

Islam has been present in Hong Kong since the early days of British rule. When Britain colonised the city in 1841, security forces were stationed to protect its growing trade centre. Among them were devout Muslim soldiers (known as Lascars) from Punjab, Lahore, and Attock who brought their faith to Hong Kong.

They settled in Sheung Wan and the surrounding areas, establishing places of worship and communal spaces that became important in religious and social affairs. Recognising the growing presence, the British colonial government reserved land for mosques and cemeteries. The Jamia Mosque, Hong Kong's first mosque, was built in the 1850s and remains a spiritual centre for the city's Muslim community. Mosque Street (摩羅廟街) and Mosque Junction (摩羅廟交加街) serve as permanent reminders of Islam's presence in the city.

Early Muslim settlers left their mark on Upper (摩羅上街) and Lower Lascar Row (摩羅下街), where Muslim seamen held their first Jamat (congregational prayer) in the streets. Over time, this humble space evolved into a bustling marketplace known as Cat Street, with antique shops replacing the original Muslim community.

The Architect of Islamic Education

Among Hong Kong's Muslim pioneers, Kasim Tuet (1919-1990), a Hui Muslim from Guangzhou, was a key figure in shaping Islamic education in Hong Kong. He spearheaded the establishment of community schools to provide young Muslims with both secular and religious education. His efforts resulted in the establishment of the Islamic Kasim Tuet Memorial College (伊斯蘭脫維善紀念中學), formerly the Islamic English College, which is still the only Islamic secondary school supported by the Hong Kong Education Bureau.

Faith Amidst Protest

One of the most notable recent incidents involving Hong Kong's Muslim community took place during the 2019 protests. On October 20, 2019, police dispersed protesters with water cannons, releasing jets of blue dye to mark them for later identification. The dye unintentionally soaked the entrance and steps of Kowloon Mosque, Hong Kong's most important Islamic religious site.

The sight of blue-stained steps sparked outrage among Muslims and others. In an effort to repair relations, Hong Kong Chief Executive Carrie Lam visited the mosque the next day and personally apologised to Islamic leaders. Chief Imam Muhammad Arshad accepted the apology and expressed the Muslim community's desire to remain peaceful in the city.

The Muslim Community Today

Today, Hong Kong has approximately 300,000 Muslims, accounting for 4.1% of the population. Indonesians, primarily female domestic workers, comprise the largest group, with over 120,000 members. Other important Muslim communities in Hong Kong include Pakistanis, Chinese Muslims, and South Asians, all of whom contribute to the city's diverse cultural landscape. In response to Hong Kong's growing Muslim population, there has been an increase in Halal restaurants and supermarkets catering to Islamic dietary preferences. While Muslim street names are less common than those from other traditions, they serve as reminders of the connection between faith, trade, migration, and Hong Kong's evolving identity.

The Freemason Handshake Footprint

Freemasonry may operate in secret, but its impact on Hong Kong's colonial history is undeniable. More than clandestine rituals and whispered oaths, it influenced governance and philanthropy—a quiet force that influenced civic life in ways few realise.

Operating in Shadows, Shaping a City

Freemasonry is a centuries-old fraternal organisation that originated in mediaeval stonemason guilds. It has since expanded into a global network of lodges where members, known as Freemasons, engage in philosophical debate, charitable work, and ritualistic ceremonies. It welcomes those seeking knowledge, self-improvement, and a sense of brotherhood.

Freemasonry originated in Europe and spread throughout the continents, eventually reaching Asia. In 1759, Swedish Freemasons on the Prince Carl arrived in Canton (Guangzhou) with special permission to hold lodge meetings at the port. This was the region's first Masonic presence, but their activities had ceased by the end of the century.

The Rise and Fall of Zetland Hall

Zetland Hall is one of Hong Kong's most well-known Masonic institutions, named after Thomas Dundas, 2nd Earl of Zetland, a significant figure in Freemasonry. More than just a meeting place, it became a symbol of brotherhood, hosting gatherings, rituals, and charitable events.

The city's first Masonic Hall was built in 1853, followed by a larger successor in 1865 on Zetland Street (泄蘭街), which quickly became the centre of Freemasonry in Hong Kong. However, its prosperity would not last. When World War II came to Hong Kong, American bombing during the Japanese occupation destroyed Zetland Hall.

Despite the devastation, Freemasonry persevered. Imprisoned Freemasons in Stanley Internment Camp secretly drew plans for a new hall, demonstrating their unwavering spirit. After recovering from wartime devastation, they found a new location at 1 Kennedy Road, where Zetland Hall reopened in 1949. The foundation stone, laid with solemn ceremony, represented more than just architecture; it was a symbol of resilience and quiet influence in Hong Kong's colonial governance and civic life.

The Visionary Freemason

Zetland Hall’s post-war revival was more than a restoration, it reaffirmed Freemasonry’s enduring role in Hong Kong’s civic and colonial life. Among its most notable members, Sir Catchick Paul Chater reshaped the city through land reclamation, infrastructure, and ventures like Hongkong Land, Hong Kong Electric, The Peak Tram, and The Star Ferry.

Chater joined Freemasonry in 1873, believing in the principles of brotherhood and relief. After losing his parents at a young age, he understood the value of education and philanthropy, allocating funds to charitable causes that benefited the community. He also served as the District Grand Master of Hong Kong and South China, guiding Freemasons through decades of influence. To honour his contributions, the Chater Masonic Scholarship Fund was established in 1929 to provide financial aid to Hong Kong students, a generous legacy that lives on today. His name is echoed in street such as Chater Road (遮打道) and Catchick Street (吉席街) as a testament to his lasting legacy.

The Secrets Behind the Blue Room

Freemasonry is more than a network of leaders; it was a fraternity steeped in tradition, symbolism, and confidentiality. One of the most intriguing aspects of this legacy is the mysterious Blue Room within Zetland Hall, a chamber that has captivated imaginations and fuelled speculation for decades. Wrapped in deep-hued velvet and steeped in whispered oaths, it serves as a secret sanctuary. Few outsiders have ever stepped inside, and even members follow an unspoken code.

In a rare interview, a journalist asked a high-ranking Freemason, "Is it true that revealing Masonic secrets once carried the punishment of having one's tongue torn out and buried at sea?" Unshaken, the official simply stated, "That is no longer the case. The promise was adjusted, those penalties were taken out in the 1980s.’

Thoughts and Explore!

From Taoist deities and Christian missionaries to Muslim traders and enigmatic Freemasons, Hong Kong’s streets whisper stories of faith, resilience, and transformation. These traditions are not mere echoes of the past—they continue to shape the city, evolving in quiet rituals and grand spectacles alike.

Want to see these stories come to life? Explore our interactive map, where markers highlight the presence of Chinese religions, Christianity, Islam, and Freemasonry across Hong Kong’s streets and places. Click below and start uncovering the city’s spiritual and historical footprint!

Next Up

Want to uncover more hidden histories? Stay tuned for the rest of the series:

Part I: How Lifestance Shaped the Streets of Hong Kong
Part II: Mapping Taoism, Buddhism, and Folk Deities
Part III: Christianity’s Imprint on Hong Kong’s Streets
Part IV: Religious Roots of Hong Kong’s Public Housing (and Sci-Fi)
Part V: Auspicious Naming and Feng Shui in Hong Kong’s Streets

The journey through Hong Kong’s sacred geography is far from over.

Folklore, Faith, and Fraternities