City of Gods — Blurred Lines

Mapping HK’s Chinese Spiritual Footprint

The Evolution of Rituals

Gotta get some afterlife designer goods for your deceased loved ones (source: SCMP)

Every August, the streets of Hong Kong come alive with a unique cultural celebration — the Hungry Ghost Festival, also known as the Yulan Festival (盂蘭節). This "Ghost Month" (鬼月) marks a time when the gates of the underworld are believed to open, and the spirits of the deceased are said to roam the city. As a result, the streets are lined with offerings such as snacks, incense, and joss paper money, ready to be consumed by these otherworldly visitors.

Burning paper Louis Vuitton bags for your beloved departed is just one example of the many quirky Hong Kong rituals. Another ritual performed by many Hong Kongers is the strategic planning of time-off to maximize the benefits of the city's 17 public holidays celebrating different religious festivals – the highest in East Asia. Despite this impressive holiday count, only 24% of Hong Kongers consider religion a significant part of their daily lives.

This dichotomy between modernity and tradition is an intriguing aspect of Hong Kong's identity. While many societal rituals have evolved over time, the influence of various faiths on the city's development remains profound. In this two-part exploration, we'll explore the fascinating ways that religion has shaped Hong Kong's urban landscape and development.

Harmony of Faiths

On the couplet: “A family of Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists, with three virtues: wisdom, benevolence and courage.” (Source: Hulu Culture)

Hong Kong's religious landscape has long been characterized by a unique blending of southern Chinese folk religions and Confucian principles. For many residents, these beliefs are less about strict adherence to dogma and more about embracing a harmonious way of life. Even those who don't consider themselves particularly devout often find themselves drawn to places like Wong Tai Sin, where they light the Lunar New Year incense.

The three major philosophical and religious traditions of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism are seen as a harmonious triad, with a long history of mutual influence and complementary teachings. This "three teachings harmonious" ethos is reflected in places like Sam Shing Street ('Three Saints Street), named after a nearby temple built in 1921 that honours deities from all three traditions.

Rather than adhering to one dogmatic belief system, Hong Kongers tend to draw from various sources to forge a personalized worldview. This flexible and inclusive approach to spirituality has become an integral part of the city's cultural identity.

Buddhism

Buddhism holds a significant presence in Hong Kong's religious landscape, with around one million followers and over 400 temples scattered across the city. One of the most iconic is the towering Tian Tan Buddha statue on Lantau Island.

Lantau's Spiritual Sanctuary

While this giant Buddha statue was only erected in 1993, Lantau Island has long been closely tied to the Buddhist faith. During the late Qing Dynasty, many Buddhist monks sought refuge in Hong Kong and established monasteries on the island. They named geographical features after Buddhist figures, objects, and concepts, such as Nei Nak Shan 彌勒山 (‘Maitreya Mountain’), Kwun Yum Shan, 觀音山 Guanyin Hill, Muk Yu Shan 木魚山 (‘Wooden Fish Hill), and 靈會山 (‘Spiritual Meeting Hill). One of the most significant Buddhist sites on Lantau is Po Lin Monastery 寶蓮禪寺, originally known as the 'Big Thatched Hut’ established in 1906 by three monks from Jiangsu Province.

From Tuen Mun to Diamond Hill

Buddhism's influence extends beyond just Lantau. The city's earliest recorded place name, Pui To Shan 杯渡山 (now Castle Peak in Tuen Mun), was named after a Buddhist monk who introduced the religion to the region in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. As Tuen Mun developed into a new town in the 1980s, the main road through the district was named Pui To Road 杯渡道 in his honour.

Another significant Buddhist site in Hong Kong is the Chi Lin Nunnery 志蓮淨苑, located at the southern foothill of Diamond Hill in Kowloon. This timber monastic complex’s origins date back to 1934 when it was originally known as Chan Chat Mansion 陳七花園別墅. The current complex, however, was rebuilt in 1998 due to the construction of the Tate's Cairn Tunnel.

The redeveloped Chi Lin Nunnery is now made entirely of cypress wood, constructed using Tang Dynasty techniques and is the world's largest handmade wooden building. In addition to the architectural design, the nunnery has also developed a landscape garden based on the Jiangshouju Garden 絳守居園池 in Shanxi. The nearby Chi Lin Drive 志蓮道 is named after the complex.

Riding the Clouds of Compassion

Tsz Shan Monastery and the Kwun Yum statue (source: Artnet News)

Beyond specific temples and monasteries, Buddhism's influence can also be seen in the veneration of certain deities, such as Kwun Yum 觀音, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. As a symbol of kindness, mercy, and compassion, Kwun Yum is highly revered by many Hongkongers, who flock to her for help with everything from their health to their love lives.

The prominence of Kwun Yum is evident in the built environment of Hong Kong. Tsz Shan Monastery 慈山寺, completed and opened in 2015, is a notable example. Funded by the richest man in Hong Kong at over HK$3.3 billion, the monastery features an impressive 76-metre tall bronze statue of Kwun Yum.

The goddess's presence is reflected in various place names across the city, such as Kun Yam Street 觀音街 in Hung Hom , Kwun Yam Shan 觀音山 on Lantau Island, and Kwun Yam Wan 觀音灣 in Cheung Chau. Tsz Wan Shan 慈雲山 (‘Compassionate Cloud Hill’) in Kowloon is named after the Kwun Yum Temple on its slopes, as the goddess Kum Yum is believed to ride the clouds and mists of the mountain (慈雲普救). Even the name of Lily Street 蓮花街 in Tai Hang is linked to Buddhism, though the English name was mistranslated from the nearby Lin Fa Temple (‘Temple of Lotus’) dedicated to the worship of Kwun Yum.

Taoism

Taoism, an ancient Chinese religion with over 2,000 years of history, has maintained a strong presence in Hong Kong. Despite its origins in the mainland, Hong Kong's Taoist tradition has evolved to incorporate regional and national deities alongside the core "orthodox" figures like Laozi 老子 and Taishang Laojun 太上老君.

The spread of Taoism in Hong Kong can be traced back to the 1880s, when a Taoist priest from Guangdong established the Shun Yeung Sin Yuen 純陽仙院 on Lantau Island. In the subsequent decades, as China experienced social upheaval, many Taoist temples from the mainland relocated or set up branches in Hong Kong, further strengthening the local Taoist landscape. Other examples include the Fung Ying Seen Koon 蓬瀛仙館 and the Ten Thousand Buddhas Hall 萬佛堂.

One of the most significant Taoist figures in Hong Kong is the deity of fortune, Wong Tai Sin 黃大仙. According to legend, Wong Tai Sin was a shepherd who was granted immortality. Introduced to Hong Kong by a native of Guangdong, his humble little altar in Wan Chai eventually turned into the famous Wong Tai Sin Temple 黃大仙祠 in Kowloon. The influx of mainland refugees in 1949 further spurred the development of the area surrounding the temple, leading to the naming of an MTR station and entire neighbourhoods after this revered deity.

Other significant Taoist sites include Ching Chung Koon 青松觀 in Tuen Mun and Yuen Yuen Institute 圓玄學院 in Tsuen Wan, which have become local landmarks. As the New Territories have developed, new roads are often named after nearby Taoist temples such as Tsing Chung Koon Road 青松觀路 and Tsing Chung Path 青松徑.

Confucianism

The former site of the Confucius free school, which is now the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre (Source: Discover HK)

Confucianism, the ancient Chinese philosophy and ethical system founded by Confucius, has had a significant impact on Hong Kong's cultural and educational landscape. Confucian values, such as filial piety, respect for elders, and social hierarchies, are deeply embedded in the city's education system.

The presence of Confucianism in Hong Kong can be traced back to the establishment of the Confucian Academy in 1930. This institution has been at the forefront of promoting Confucian teachings and ideals to the public. The Confucius free school 孔聖義學, originally founded in the late Qing Dynasty, played a crucial role in providing education to the underprivileged. After being destroyed during World War II, the school was later rebuilt in 1949, preserving the Confucian principles that had guided its mission. The legacy can be seen in the Tai Hang neighbourhood, where streets like School Street 書館街and Lai Yin Street 禮賢街 ('Rite and Virtuous Street') are named after the former Confucius free school.

Folk Religions

As Hong Kong's economy transitioned from traditional farming and fishing to commerce in the early 20th century, diverse ethnic and industry-specific worship practices emerged. The veneration of sea deities, such as the popular Tin Hau, Hung Shing, Pak Tai, and Tam Kung, became especially prominent. With the rise of maritime trade, fishermen, and merchants who relied on the sea for their livelihoods turned to these deities, believing they possessed the power to ensure safe voyages, calm the waters, and bring good fortune. These traditional beliefs and practices became a unifying force within the Chinese population.

Tin Hau: The Goddess of the Sea

Tin Hau, Goddess of the Sea aka Mazu (source: wiki)

Tin Hau 天后 (‘Celestial Empress’), the Goddess of the Sea stands as the most popular deity in Hong Kong, with over 80 temples dedicated to her worship. Traditionally revered by fishermen and seafarers across the Fujian, Taiwan, Guangdong, and Hainan regions, Tin Hau is believed to have the power to guide sailors safely through treacherous waters. According to legend, Tin Hau was a woman during the Song Dynasty in Fujian who could predict weather changes, and ascended a mountain and became immortal at 29.

In Hong Kong, the oldest and most famous Tin Hau Temple is located in Joss House Bay, also known as Tai Miu Wan 大廟灣 ('Bay of the Great Temple'). Believed to date back to the Southern Song dynasty, this temple is a popular pilgrimage site for fishermen and locals alike. The channel in the Sai Kung District between Joss House Bay (also called the 北佛堂 "North Buddhist Hall") and Tung Lung Chau (previously known as the 南佛堂 "South Buddhist Hall") is named Fat Tong Mun 佛堂門 ('Gate of Buddhist Temple'). Additionally, places like Ma Wan 馬灣 and Ma Wan Chung 馬灣涌 on Lantau Island are named after her other name, "Mazu" 媽祖.

The prevalence of Tin Hau-related sites, including the MTR station, roads, and streets throughout the city, such as Tin Hau Temple Road 天后廟道, Temple Street 廟街 , Tin Hau Road 天后路, and Miu Tung Street 廟東街, further underscores the deep-rooted influence of this sea goddess in Hong Kong's cultural and religious landscape.

Hung Shing: The God of the South Sea

Hung Shing 洪聖, also known as the God of the South Sea, is a prominent water deity worshipped in southern China. He was a government official during the Tang dynasty whose expertise in astrology and geography helped local fishermen predict the weather and return home safely from their fishing trips.

Hung Shing Temples are widespread across the region, with most built after the early Qing Dynasty. Landmarks like Hung Shing Yeh Beach 洪聖爺灣 on Lamma Island, Hung Shing Street 洪聖街 in Ap Lei Chau, and Tai Wong Street East and West 大王東西街 in Wanchai are all named after Hung Shing and the temples dedicated to him.

The Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven (source)

Pak Tai: The One with a Badass Name

Pak Tai 北帝, known as the Northern Emperor or Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven, is an ancient Chinese deity with roots in mythology and history. During the fall of the Shang Dynasty, he was appointed by the Jade Emperor to lead twelve heavenly legions against the Demon King. After defeating the Demon King, Pak Tai was awarded the title of Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven and is worshipped for his power, courage, and ability to abate disasters. Pak Tai's iconography often depicts him standing on a serpent and a tortoise, which symbolises the triumph of righteousness over the forces of darkness.

Pak Tai is associated with water and navigation, making him a revered deity in Hong Kong and southern China. Local legends trace his origin in Hong Kong to a chance discovery by fishermen in Cheung Chau, who found a statue of the god entangled in their nets and interpreted it as a divine sign. This led to the construction of the Pak Tai Temple, after which nearby streets were named including Pak She Street 北社街 and Pak She New Village 北社新村. Another story centres on Pak Tai Street 北帝街, where an original Pak Tei Temple was built in 1876, later demolished in 1921 due to urban development, and then rebuilt in 1929 at the current site of Hok Yuen Kok, with the adjacent Pak Kung Street 北拱街, which means "Protected by the Northern Emperor".

Tam Kung: The Child Prodigy God of Wind and Rain

Tam Kung holding some kind of symbolic object, he is meant to be a child so don’t be weird about this :) (source: HK Memory)

The revered Hakka child prodigy Tam Kung 譚公 is widely worshipped by the Hakka people as the god of wind and rain. Believed to possess the power to control the elements and aid the needy, Tam Kung's influence can be seen across various areas of Hong Kong. Local legends recount Tam Kung's heroic deeds, such as saving people from a devastating flood by battling the Dragon God.

In the early days of Shau Kei Wan, a significant portion of the local population were Hakka fishermen and stonemasons who revered Tam Kung as their protective deity. The Tam Kung Temple in the area was initially built as an altar on the rock formation known as A Kung Ngam 亞公岩, before evolving into a full-fledged temple. The adjacent road was subsequently named Tam Kung Temple Road 譚公廟道. The Shau Kei Wan Tam Kung Temple is said to have remained unscathed during the Japanese attack on Hong Kong in 1941, and a nearby fire was miraculously extinguished in 1946, further strengthening Tam Kung's reputation as a guardian deity.

Another Tam Kung Temple was constructed in the 19th century by then water-dwelling residents of To Kwa Wan, Kowloon. Sadly, this temple was destroyed during World War II, and the area was later opened up as Tam Kung Road 譚公道.

Shing Wong: The City God

Even this deity can’t escape from bureaucracy from hell (source)

Shing Wong 城隍 or the City God, is a prominent deity in Chinese mythology who oversees urban affairs. The name "Shing" refers to the city wall, and "Wong" refers to the moat. During the Ming dynasty, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang decided cities needed more bureaucracy and established a hierarchical system for Shing Wongs, each one with their own slice of the underworld to manage. Today, people would pray to the Shing Wong for various reasons, such as seeking good weather, disaster relief, and protection from ghosts and evil spirits.

In Hong Kong, the Shing Wong Temple first appeared in 1842, located in the Chinese residential area west of Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. However, this small-scale temple was later destroyed by a typhoon, and the Shing Wong statue was moved to the nearby Man Mo Temple for continued worship. The original temple site was then opened up as a road leading up the mountain, which became known as Shing Wong Street 城皇街. Interestingly, when the street names were later renamed in the early 20th century, the authorities mistakenly changed the "隍" character in the street name to the homonymous "皇" character, assuming the nearby area had also once been the site of the Queen's College.

Hau Wong: The Loyal Marquis

Hau Wong, the one who fled to Kowloon and became a deity

In the southern Guangdong region, the Hau Wong 侯王 belief centres around temples dedicated to historical figures, often military leaders from the Song Dynasty. These temples are intricately linked to the area's military defence history, as they were typically constructed near former military outposts and sites where legendary generals had once stationed their troops.

One such figure who became a revered local deity is Yang Liangjie 楊亮節, a general who fought against the invading Yuan Dynasty forces. After suffering defeat, Yang sought refuge in the Kowloon peninsula. Recognizing his bravery and loyalty, the local residents built a temple near Kowloon City to honour Yang, with Hau Wong Road 侯王道 located nearby. Similarly, other Hau Wong temples can be found in places like Tung Chung and Tai O, each with its own historical connection to the military leaders of the Song era who fought to defend the region.

Che Kung: The Epidemic Dispeller

Che Kung Temple (車公廟) was built pre-1890. The temple's famous windmill is believed to bring luck. An expansion in 1993 made the new temple eight times larger, with the old temple now occasionally open to the public. (source: wiki)

Che Kung 車公, a revered general from the Song Dynasty, is celebrated for his role in protecting local communities and dispelling epidemics. Over time, his influence expanded from a village protector to a regional deity, with his temples becoming significant cultural and religious symbols in Hong Kong.

It was said that during the late Ming Dynasty, an epidemic in Sha Tin led residents to discover historical accounts describing Che Kung's reputation for clearing epidemics wherever he travelled. Inspired by these stories, the people of Sha Tin decided to build a temple to honour the general. Legend has it that the epidemic subsided on the very day the construction of the Che Kung Temple was completed.

Today, two of the most prominent Che Kung temples can be found in Sai Kung and Sha Tin, with a nearby street named Che Kung Miu Road 車公廟路 in recognition of the deity's legacy.

To Dei Gong: The (Down-to-)Earth Deity

China has historically been an agricultural society, and the worship of community gods has been a central aspect of Chinese culture. Among these, the land gods or earth gods, known by various names such as "To Dei Gong 土地公", "She shen 社神", "Tai Wong 大王", "Fook Tak Gong 福德公" and the Hakka term "Pak Kung 伯公" have played a significant role.

The tiny To Dei Gong shrines you probably walk past everyday

The worship of the earth god had already established a well-developed sacrificial mechanism by the Zhou Dynasty. During the Han Dynasty, most Chinese towns and villages had erected altars to the earth god. Unlike other deities, the earth god is not the incarnation of a fixed mythological figure. Its altars are typically set up in practical locations, such as village entrances, roadsides, or under trees, rather than in dedicated temples. The earth god is often worshipped as an accompanying deity in temples, but rarely has its own temple.

These earth god shrines can be found along mountain passes and trade routes, serving as patron saints for the villages they are located in. These simple structures are intended to protect travelers. There are at least four "Pak Kung Au" 伯公坳 locations in Hong Kong, the most notable being on Lantau Island. Other sites include Tai Lam in Yuen Long, Sai Kung, and the Sha Tau Kok Border Closed Area. The villages of Tai Wong Ha and Sheung Tsuen 大王上下村 in Tsing Yi were also named after this deity.

Take a Tour

Hong Kong's diverse religious practices and rituals mirror its rich cultural landscape. While modernisation has reshaped some traditional customs, the deep-rooted influences of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and folk religions continue to shape both the city's urban landscape and the daily lives of Hong Kongers. As the city continues to evolve, these time-honoured traditions and beliefs will undoubtedly adapt and evolve alongside it.

Explore the map for more information about streets and places named after Chinese religions and deities:

Next Up

In the next chapter, we will explore the influence that other religions, particularly Christianity, have had on Hong Kong's socioeconomic development and urban landscape — from the development of public housing to the inspiration behind one of the most celebrated Chinese science fiction adventure series.